Sonata Dress by Love Notions - Sewing Pattern Review for Curvy Sewists

I'm trying to catch up on blogging about all my recent makes. Despite not blogging in 4 months, I've actually been quite busy on the sewing front!

First up is the Sonata Dress by Love Notions.

I stumbled upon this pattern on Instagram and really loved the notched neckline and the simplicity of the pattern. I think it's tempting to always reach for patterns that are super unique and more of the party dress variety, but when it comes down to it I mostly need comfy dresses that I can wear to work.

I liked that the neckline had something interesting going on, but other than that it was a pretty simple silhouette. A-line skirts are a good shape on me, and the elastic in the back helps with my swayback.

Pattern

The PDF pattern was super easy to put together. I do the window-lightbox method of PDF pattern construction anyway, but this one was specifically made to be no trim. You just line up the edge of the paper with the printed line on the pattern. Gold Star for you, Love Notions!

Other nice features of the pattern design include:

• Different bodices for A-D cups
• Nested layers - i.e. you select your size and when you print you only see that size (I usually choose mine and the one above and below just in case I want to adjust)
• Printing guide so you only print what you need

• Nice printing layout - the printing layout is such that you don't have a ton of overlap between pieces which simplifies the process of assembling. Rather than trying to get 20 pages or more all together before you can cut apart, you only have to do 4-8 at a time for each pattern piece.
• The pockets are designed to be cut as part of the skirt, which cuts down on construction time and is super easy.

Fabric

I picked up a polyester "stretch" crepe from JoAnn fabrics. It doesn't really stretch despite 3% Spandex but it's very nice to sew and cut, although ironing it is ineffective at the low temperature I used because I feared melting the fabric if I got it too hot.

Chest forward! Aaaaaaand thrust!

The Ikat I used for my second version was also from JoAnn. I can't find it on the website but I see it all over Instagram. It's a linen-look a like fabric, called something like "Ikat linen blend."

Staring into the abyss (of dandelions I still have to pick).

Pattern Modifications

I made the pattern as drafted the first time. The design is meant to be more of an empire waist (pronounced "em-PEER" for those in back. Made the mistake of saying "EM-pie-er" and was ruthlessly mocked).

I felt a slightly lower waist would be a bit more flattering on my body and more comfortable. I have a long waist, and where the gathered elastic waistband hit my ribcage was a bit irritating.

I also did narrow shoulder adjustment to take care of the extra fabric at my back neckline, which is a common adjustment for me. This rotated in the shoulders, reduced the width at the back neckline and upper chest.

I elegantly (ha) folded out the extra space in the pattern in the neckline and then adjusted the top of the shoulder to keep the same slope as before. I added 1.5" (I think) to the bodice and adjusted the dart through that area to be longer/create a straight line to the tip of the dart.

Same idea in the back. I folded out a dart from the center back tapered to nothing at the armscye. This distorted the folded line (there was extra jutting out across the foldline at the neckline). I folded that under to make a straight line, thus reducing the area I have extra fabric. Then I adjusted the back neckline and slope of the shoulder to the appropriate spots. Added the same amount of length to the bodice, and don't worry - that weird notch isn't a cut out. I was just too lazy to patch that with a piece of paper since I am obviously putting this along a fold.

My first version (floral) I tried to make flutter sleeves but they were too long and the fabric was too stiff and they stuck out weirdly. I made do and shortened them to make the dress wearable, then went back to the drafted short sleeves for my second version.

See how the sleeve on the left sticks out at the hem? Yuck. The right side shows where I cut it off before I finished the edge.

You can sort of tell how the shoulders are set less wide in the second/Ikat version. It definitely feels more comfortable and less like it's slipping off my shoulders.

It has pockets!

Is there anything better than a pattern with pockets? I submit that there is not. These fabrics are nice and sturdy and I can put my phone in these pockets without dragging down the bodice.

Tracking Sewing Expenses

I'll write a legit post about this, but I want to start keeping better track of my successful garment costs, and maybe separately my unsuccessful garment costs. Some people think sewing is cheaper than buying ready to wear and I'm pretty sure that's not true, but I am curious on a garment-by-garment basis what the things I'm making are costing in materials alone.

Obviously my time is another calculation but since these are for myself and for fun, I won't add that in. (My hourly rate is outrageous.)

• Tulip fabric: $25.10 for 3.25 yards (end of bolt discounts on multiple pieces were involved)
• Ikat fabric: $55.96 for 4 yards. Yikes, amiright?! This dress did not require 4 yards though, maybe only about 2.5 so I'm reducing this to $35
• Pattern: $10

Total for 2 dresses: $70 

The Tulip version was $30 and the Ikat version was $40. If I make more Sonatas, the cost per make will continue to come down for these because the pattern will get more use.

I did have extra tulip fabric too and tried to make a wearable muslin for a camisole, but it looked terrible so the rest of this might have a one-way ticket to the trash so I'll just say all of it went to this dress.

Edited to add actual Review:

I like this pattern a lot and I see more in my future! It's a super easy and quick sew and looks really nice. I've worn both versions to work several times and they're very comfortable. The Sonata Dress is a well-constructed pattern, it has a pretty inclusive size range and I believe could easily be altered to fit any body shape.

One tip - I suggest lining the bodice instead of using the facing. I didn't like how it looked when I top stitched the facing on my first version and it doesn't want to stay down without it. Honestly, it's easier to just line it, and faster!

In conclusion: I like it. I really like it!

Meta-Notes

I've decided to title my posts a bit more conventionally so that people actually know what my posts are about. This might surprise you, but not only have I run blogs professionally, I have also worked in content marketing! This is definitely a "cobbler's children have no shoes" situation, or maybe a "marketer's blog has no SEO" situation. Take your pick.

It probably will also improve the user experience of my site, since titles like "Lumberbaby," "Iiiiiiit's John Boy!," and "Apple Shaped Pear," while fun to write, are not overly descriptive or indicative of the blog post's content.

But honestly, I can't decide if I want people to come to this blog for the sewing or the "clever" titles. I'm definitely confused about my target audience, but in my free time I can throw caution to the wind and proceed without a clear strategy nonetheless!