Kate Expectations

I'll skip the pleasantries and jump right in.

I'm partial to wrap dresses, wrap tops, pretty much anything I can wrap around my earthly vessel. As a result, I have sewn many a wrap dress in my sewing journeys.

First up, the Kate Wrap Dress by Style Arc.

Style Arc is an Australian pattern company and I'm a huge fan. I've found that their patterns fit me well straight out of the ... I'd say package, but PDF is more appropriate in this case. (It would be impossible for me to have the patience to wait for a printer pattern to ship from Australia so thank goodness for PDF patterns.)

In case it's not clear, the Kate Dress is a reference to a certain Duchess who I guess wore a wrap dress at some point.

Here are some pictures of the dress in progress. I was trying to decide what to do for the sleeve cuffs since I had a lovely border print to work with. I can't find the original color, but this is what the fabric I cut from looked like:

Purchased from Fabric Mart

My original thought was that I would have the stripe run along the bottom of the dress hem, however the stripe ran down the grainline instead of across it.

The fabric only stretched across the selvage so my options were either to not have it stretch widthwise (not advisable with a garment with some negative ease) or piece the hem onto the bottom. Given the slinky nature of the ITY knit I felt it would be weird to add a seamline at thigh level.

I gave up on that idea and thought I might be able to add the stripe to the sleeve cuffs but wasn't in love with the look.

I was left with the stripe at the tie only, and while I feel like it was a missed opportunity with such a nice border print fabric, I think it was the right choice for this dress.

Something I really like about this wrap dress is the clear elastic you sew into the neckline. It feels quite secure when you're wearing it. I don't love the look of the zig zag stitch down the edge of the neckline, but it'd probably be less noticeable if I could have matched the thread to the fabric -- my choice was to either do it in white and have that show up on the black part of the print, or do it in black and have that show up on the white part of the print.

I'm quite pleased with how it came out, and I even made a knit slip to go under it so I have no worries about flashing anyone.

Once I sewed it together, the tie lost all traces of the yellow stripe, which was hidden in the seam.

I forget if the pattern instructions said to do it this way, but I only ever set in sleeves flat these days. Knit patterns tend to instruct you to construct them flat, but most woven patterns want you to finagle them in after you've sewn side seams. Ain't nobody got time for that.

The dress fits really well, the pattern is great, and while there are a few tricky bits (like getting the elastic in right) it's a pretty straightforward and simple pattern. If you're looking for a nice wrap dress pattern that you can wear to work, this definitely fits the bill.

Spend summary:
Pattern: $10ish
Fabric: 3 yards @ $4/yard = $12
Total cost: $22

Speaking of wrap dresses, you can read about another famous knit wrap pattern I've made multiple times, the Appleton Dress by Cashmerette. The Appleton has a really nice neckband construction which I admire greatly.

That's all for now, or as my toddler now frequently says to my great delight: Toodles.

Summer 2018 Sewing Recap Part 1: Fringe Dress Pattern Views A & B

I had an incredibly prolific summer of sewing and although I was sharing right along on Instagram, I definitely neglected the ol' blogaroonie. 

I'm going to start recapping my sewing since May 2018. I'll break it into a few posts because this will take a while!

 

Some notes on format: I'm going to start being more consistent about reporting on costs for a few reasons:

1. So I can remember and keep track for myself better, and therefore plan my purchases and spending a bit more strategically. 
2. To answer everyone's favorite question: do you save money sewing your own clothes? Obviously these cost calculations don't take into account my time, cost of most notions like thread, buttons, and zippers (I usually buy these things without a specific project in mind so it's hard to calculate or attribute 1/4 of a spool of thread to a project...), and the cost of having and maintaining sewing machines.

I have been doing more repeat patterns, so I'm always going to count the cost of the pattern in the first make.

Fringe Dress by Chalk & Notch Patterns

My first version in May was waaay too big and I also dropped the waist a bit too much. I do have a long waist, but I didn't account for the skirt pulling down the waistline. I think I also added length to the skirt. 

The result was a bit shapeless and dowdy and my chosen fabric wasn't substantial enough to support the pocket contents, rendering them pretty useless for carrying my phone. Also they were ridiculously low because I added length to the bodice.

Mistakes were made, ok?

I made View B with the ties in the front darts.

Glorious Garden Rayon Challis: $7/yard * 2 yards = $14

Pattern: $12

Total Cost of Fringe Dress 1: $26

Sleeves without the tie-backs.

Sleeves with the tie-backs.

I finished my second Fringe Dress, this time View A with buttons and no ties, in August.

I sized way down, and measured the actual pattern so it would be more form fitting, very little ease. I figured with the buttons (a way to get in since there was no ease) and no ties (no way to cinch in the waist) that this was the better way to go.

Since I only had 2 yards of fabric, I didn't have the option of lengthening the skirt, and the shaped hem meant that the sides were a bit scandalous if I wanted to wear it to work. So I inserted a little piece into the sides of the finished skirt to bring the hemline down. You can't tell in the pictures - win! 

I barely had enough fabric to make that work - this was one of those projects where all that's left is a few tiny scraps. Another win!

If it's not obvious, I like the second version much better. The fit is much better and it's definitely one of those dresses I wear to work and get compliments on. I have been wearing the first one around the house and as kind of a beach cover up. Maybe I'll go back and alter it to be smaller, but it's more fun to make NEW things!

I finally got new shoes to wear with dresses, y'all! It's a Christmas miracle!

Fabric: Heritage Rayon - Treasured - Kermes: $13.20/yard * 2 yards = $26.40

(Purchased from Michael Levine / LowPriceFabric.com. Also available from Fabric.com and other retailers.)

Pattern: $0 (second make)

Total Cost of Fringe Dress 2: $26.40

I'm pretty sure the Fringe Dress was the Dress of the Summer and there are many gorgeous versions to be found on the interwebs. It's a quick, satisfying make and very on trend. I'm obviously a very trendy person, so... j/k I'm amazed I made something trendy while it's still in style - YOLO!

OK, I'm exhausted by this whole blogging thing. I also just spent an hour going through my fabric receipts adding things into a spreadsheet so that I could actually add up the costs. Note to self: keep better track as you buy things. 

So until next time: Sew sexy and don't sew your fingers.*

*I actually sewed my fingers twice this summer. A story for another time.

Sonata Dress by Love Notions - Sewing Pattern Review for Curvy Sewists

I'm trying to catch up on blogging about all my recent makes. Despite not blogging in 4 months, I've actually been quite busy on the sewing front!

First up is the Sonata Dress by Love Notions.

I stumbled upon this pattern on Instagram and really loved the notched neckline and the simplicity of the pattern. I think it's tempting to always reach for patterns that are super unique and more of the party dress variety, but when it comes down to it I mostly need comfy dresses that I can wear to work.

I liked that the neckline had something interesting going on, but other than that it was a pretty simple silhouette. A-line skirts are a good shape on me, and the elastic in the back helps with my swayback.

Pattern

The PDF pattern was super easy to put together. I do the window-lightbox method of PDF pattern construction anyway, but this one was specifically made to be no trim. You just line up the edge of the paper with the printed line on the pattern. Gold Star for you, Love Notions!

Other nice features of the pattern design include:

• Different bodices for A-D cups
• Nested layers - i.e. you select your size and when you print you only see that size (I usually choose mine and the one above and below just in case I want to adjust)
• Printing guide so you only print what you need

• Nice printing layout - the printing layout is such that you don't have a ton of overlap between pieces which simplifies the process of assembling. Rather than trying to get 20 pages or more all together before you can cut apart, you only have to do 4-8 at a time for each pattern piece.
• The pockets are designed to be cut as part of the skirt, which cuts down on construction time and is super easy.

Fabric

I picked up a polyester "stretch" crepe from JoAnn fabrics. It doesn't really stretch despite 3% Spandex but it's very nice to sew and cut, although ironing it is ineffective at the low temperature I used because I feared melting the fabric if I got it too hot.

Chest forward! Aaaaaaand thrust!

The Ikat I used for my second version was also from JoAnn. I can't find it on the website but I see it all over Instagram. It's a linen-look a like fabric, called something like "Ikat linen blend."

Staring into the abyss (of dandelions I still have to pick).

Pattern Modifications

I made the pattern as drafted the first time. The design is meant to be more of an empire waist (pronounced "em-PEER" for those in back. Made the mistake of saying "EM-pie-er" and was ruthlessly mocked).

I felt a slightly lower waist would be a bit more flattering on my body and more comfortable. I have a long waist, and where the gathered elastic waistband hit my ribcage was a bit irritating.

I also did narrow shoulder adjustment to take care of the extra fabric at my back neckline, which is a common adjustment for me. This rotated in the shoulders, reduced the width at the back neckline and upper chest.

I elegantly (ha) folded out the extra space in the pattern in the neckline and then adjusted the top of the shoulder to keep the same slope as before. I added 1.5" (I think) to the bodice and adjusted the dart through that area to be longer/create a straight line to the tip of the dart.

Same idea in the back. I folded out a dart from the center back tapered to nothing at the armscye. This distorted the folded line (there was extra jutting out across the foldline at the neckline). I folded that under to make a straight line, thus reducing the area I have extra fabric. Then I adjusted the back neckline and slope of the shoulder to the appropriate spots. Added the same amount of length to the bodice, and don't worry - that weird notch isn't a cut out. I was just too lazy to patch that with a piece of paper since I am obviously putting this along a fold.

My first version (floral) I tried to make flutter sleeves but they were too long and the fabric was too stiff and they stuck out weirdly. I made do and shortened them to make the dress wearable, then went back to the drafted short sleeves for my second version.

See how the sleeve on the left sticks out at the hem? Yuck. The right side shows where I cut it off before I finished the edge.

You can sort of tell how the shoulders are set less wide in the second/Ikat version. It definitely feels more comfortable and less like it's slipping off my shoulders.

It has pockets!

Is there anything better than a pattern with pockets? I submit that there is not. These fabrics are nice and sturdy and I can put my phone in these pockets without dragging down the bodice.

Tracking Sewing Expenses

I'll write a legit post about this, but I want to start keeping better track of my successful garment costs, and maybe separately my unsuccessful garment costs. Some people think sewing is cheaper than buying ready to wear and I'm pretty sure that's not true, but I am curious on a garment-by-garment basis what the things I'm making are costing in materials alone.

Obviously my time is another calculation but since these are for myself and for fun, I won't add that in. (My hourly rate is outrageous.)

• Tulip fabric: $25.10 for 3.25 yards (end of bolt discounts on multiple pieces were involved)
• Ikat fabric: $55.96 for 4 yards. Yikes, amiright?! This dress did not require 4 yards though, maybe only about 2.5 so I'm reducing this to $35
• Pattern: $10

Total for 2 dresses: $70 

The Tulip version was $30 and the Ikat version was $40. If I make more Sonatas, the cost per make will continue to come down for these because the pattern will get more use.

I did have extra tulip fabric too and tried to make a wearable muslin for a camisole, but it looked terrible so the rest of this might have a one-way ticket to the trash so I'll just say all of it went to this dress.

Edited to add actual Review:

I like this pattern a lot and I see more in my future! It's a super easy and quick sew and looks really nice. I've worn both versions to work several times and they're very comfortable. The Sonata Dress is a well-constructed pattern, it has a pretty inclusive size range and I believe could easily be altered to fit any body shape.

One tip - I suggest lining the bodice instead of using the facing. I didn't like how it looked when I top stitched the facing on my first version and it doesn't want to stay down without it. Honestly, it's easier to just line it, and faster!

In conclusion: I like it. I really like it!

Meta-Notes

I've decided to title my posts a bit more conventionally so that people actually know what my posts are about. This might surprise you, but not only have I run blogs professionally, I have also worked in content marketing! This is definitely a "cobbler's children have no shoes" situation, or maybe a "marketer's blog has no SEO" situation. Take your pick.

It probably will also improve the user experience of my site, since titles like "Lumberbaby," "Iiiiiiit's John Boy!," and "Apple Shaped Pear," while fun to write, are not overly descriptive or indicative of the blog post's content.

But honestly, I can't decide if I want people to come to this blog for the sewing or the "clever" titles. I'm definitely confused about my target audience, but in my free time I can throw caution to the wind and proceed without a clear strategy nonetheless!

All Appleton, All The Time

To celebrate the making of my second Appleton Dress, I figured I should finally write about the first one that I made 5 months ago.

But first, some monologue:

Cashmerette patterns are named after streets in Boston. The Appleton is named after a street in the South End, which happens to be within walking distance of basically every job/all education I had between 18 and 30. I'm talking like 6 different jobs here, and two degrees, and if I extended that circle a bit more I could encompass at least 2 more jobs. It's weird to think that for 12 years I spent the majority of my brain power in such a small area of the city. 

In case you're curious, my jobs did NOT include working at the AMC Loews or Escape Room Boston.

It was nice to be able to take a walk through the Boston Common and Boston Garden at lunch, or to pop over to all of the shopping in Downtown Crossing so easily. But, I can't say I miss the T delays and crowds of tourists. (Sorry, everyone who has ever visited Boston.)

I picked up my Appleton pattern at Clementine, a beautiful little haberdashery in Rockland, Maine. We were staying in Camden, Maine for a quick getaway sans child and I made a point to find a local fabric store so I could treat myself to a project. 

I also got several yards of a knit Art Gallery Fabric (Magnolia nightfall from the Charleston collection by Amy Sinibaldi for Art Gallery fabrics). It says it's 95% cotton 5% Spandex.

My haul from Clementine.

 Here's a look at my first finished Appleton:

And here I am wearing it. We snapped this picture before dashing off to catch the train/drop off at daycare/drive to work:

This dress features heavily in my work wardrobe rotation, so I figured it was time to make another one. Since I've worn the first one quite a bit, I knew there was one primary change I wanted to make, but it was really to go back to the way the pattern was intended to be sewn up. More on that in a minute.

First, my original pattern alterations:

The front of the wrap

I wanted to preserve the original printed pattern, so I traced two sizes: a 16 and a 20. I needed a 16 on top and a 20 in my hips. You can see below that I cut the 16 in the shoulders/neck. I made sure that when I traced the neckband pieces, I cut a 16.

I have an absurdly long waist, so I measured the widest point of my hip from my shoulders and compared it to the widest part of the hips in the pattern. I needed to add 4", which also helped spread out the difference between my 16 top/20 bottom. You can see in the photo below that if the extra length wasn't added, I would have had to dramatically flare out at the waist. 

The first time I made the pattern, I thought that because of my long waist, the ties would hit too high above my waist, basically on my rib cage/under the bust. You're supposed to cut the right side (the side that sits on top) of the wrap slightly narrower than the left, so it ends about 80% of the way across your front, instead of 100% across your body like the left side of the wrap.

In the picture above, you can see the fold on the right of the pattern piece. You're supposed to cut the left side unfolded, then cut the right side without that 2" or so. Because the neckline is diagonal, if you fold over 2" the edge is higher than the left side edge by 1-1.5". That's where you attach the tie that goes around your body. 

Thinking myself clever, I thought that if I cut the right side the full width (i.e. cut it exactly the same size as the left side), that the lower tie would correct the too-high-waist problem.

I don't think it did actually make much of a difference, although I think it made the front of the dress perpetually lopsided when I tied it: because I was pulling the waist tie lower, it would throw off the angle of the vertical edge of the wrap, so it would rotate just enough so that the front edges of the wrap pieces didn't line up.

When I cut my second version of the Appleton, I actually followed the original pattern intentions, and weirdly I think it's actually straighter and the waist ties seem to hit appropriately. Above was the picture I took before I hemmed it or finished the sleeves to see if I was going to keep it as a dress or turn it into a wrap top.

Let's talk fabric. This was sitting on my Trello board (here's a post on how I use Trello to manage sewing projects) and I haven't found any other knit dress patterns I like so I figured I'd go for it.

I paid $16.20 for 3 yards of this DTY knit from Michael Levine when there was a 20% off sale. (It's no longer on the site, otherwise I'd link directly to it.) It's incredibly soft, and you can't beat $5-something a yard. I'd never heard of DTY before -- apparently it's the matte cousin of ITY (which has more of a glossy sheen).

The colors are super rich, and I love the large floral in theory. What gave me pause when I first sewed it up is I thought maybe the large floral had a muumuu vibe, if you know what I mean. 

Exhibit A: muumuu.

I thought maybe if I made it into a wrap top instead of a dress, it would mitigate the muumuu impression by reducing the amount of large floral fabric, but I decided to just stay the course and finish it. Please weigh in in the comments if I look like I'm walking around in a muumuu because I'd sincerely like to know.

Finished garment pictures. The morning light was shining right in my eyes, so I'm squinting quite a bit in these, but the only way I can take a picture in daylight is if we do it right before work. (Because there's no way in hell I'm going to get dressed up on the weekend to take pictures when I'm hanging around all day. Sorry, that's precious sewing time!)

Don't you love the picturesque view from my deck? A winter wonderland!

Much like my soul, the trees are barren of signs of life.

The view most people see as I race past them up the corporate ladder.

These flats are my "wearing tights" shoes and I've had them for like 6 years. Maybe time to invest in some new shoes.

I will say after having worn it at work for a full day that this version is even comfier than my last version. The fabric is soooo soft that I might not even stop wearing it if you tell me it looks like a muumuu.

I do have an exciting update on the "sewing better" front.

Tip Numero 1:

First, I used 1/4" Washaway Wonder Tape to stabilize any areas that needed top stitching. Normally if I do a zig-zag stitch on a knit, the machine stretches the fabric a bit and warps the seam. I read a hot tip on Cookin' and Craftin''s review of the Blackwood Cardigan that suggested doing this and guess what, it really does work!

Here's how I did it (demonstrating on a scrap as I forgot to take pics in progress):

First, I laid the sticky side of the tape down along the edge of the hem (for both the sleeve hems and the bottom hem).

Next, I tore off the paper side to expose the other sticky side.

Then I just folded it to the appropriate hem length and sewed directly on top of the tape sandwich. It added enough stability to prevent stretching, which made a perfect stitch. Once I wash it, it will just dissolve away. Another bonus is you don't have to pin, because the stickiness holds the fabric in place. 

Tip Numero 2:

The instructions call for a piece of clear elastic when you're sewing the shoulder seams to prevent over-stretching and add stability. On my first Appleton, I first tried to serge the seam but the fabric seemed to just shred. I think part of this was a fabric issue - it didn't like the serger - but using the elastic would have definitely helped.

When I started my second Appleton, I knew I wanted to use my serger and after testing fabric scraps this knit seemed much more amenable. However, I still hadn't picked up some clear elastic and I did want to stabilize the shoulder seams, so I did a Google search for alternatives to clear elastic and found an awesome tip.

All you do is cut a bias-cut piece of fabric and add it to the seam sandwich. I used some scrap quilting cotton. Because it's cut on the bias, it's a little bit stretchy, but much less stretchy than the fabric would be on its own. That means that there's less stress on the shoulder seam.

It worked like a charm and now that's my new favorite trick for sewing with knits!

That's all folks. Don't forget to let me know if I'm committing the most egregious of fashion faux pas and also please let me know how many wrap dresses are too many wrap dresses. Asking for a friend...